Day 9 … and that’s a wrap

Very slow start to the day as our flight was not until 4:30pm. Just as well as I had the worst night’s sleep of our vacation – is that because of our imminent return to normal life?

Last photo from apartment.

We wandered into town (it was raining steadily) and did a bit of last minute shopping. Wayne had to go via Patagonia again as the chocolates were calling.

Borrowed umbrellas from Peppers.
Enjoying his chocolate.

We made our last meal in Queenstown a special one and went to Flame. I now want Wayne to do a course and learn to make their mushroom sauce and fried onions. The meal was incredible and worth every cent.

We returned to Peppers where I got out of my wet shoes and socks. I think one of the joys of life is to put on dry socks and shoes.

Can’t even see the gondola.
Still beautiful despite the rain.

We caught the shuttle bus to the airport and waited for our flight in the jam-packed Queenstown travel Lounge.

As I wait – My reflections:

The decadence of sleeping in with no reason to get up. Loved our slow starts.

The decadence of sparkling wine and beer as the first ‘meal’ of the day.

On the TSS Earnslaw

The decadence of having two rooms and a huge apartment – room enough for four, even more room for two. One room was Wayne’s dressing room.

The decadence of exploring a new place slowly and it not costing a fortune.

Our favourites (a little limited as there is only the two of us):

Food

Ann – This morning when I first started writing this, it was fish tacos at Rooftop Bar and Terrace (the side of vegetables made it for me). After lunch today, it is now Flame. The rib-eye and vegetables were devine!

Wayne – Last meal at Flame

Activity

Ann – a tie between the Jet Boat and Onsen Hot Pool

Wayne – Jet boat ride

Tourist spot

Ann – Milford Sound

Wayne – Milford Sound

Our flight home was uneventful, always a good thing when you’re travelling. Wayne and I are pleased to say that we survived our first extended holiday alone since our honeymoon 29 years and 10 days ago.

We did however miss our travelling buddies and have Donna to thank for all her organisation.

I am now signing off until the end of the year when we pack the bags again. This time, there’ll be six of us jetting off to Europe. Watch this space!

Day 8 – Kiwi Bird Sanctuary and Glenorchy

Apart from the morning we left for Milford Sound, I have been sleeping into at least 7:30. Today I was up at 6:30. I went out on our balcony, albeit a little cool, and caught this amazing view. It’s worth being up and about and opening the curtains!

I don’t think I’ll ever tire of our apartment views! You did well, Donna!

I dragged Wayne to the bird show this morning. I have been very saddened hearing how introduced species of flora and fauna have wiped out or endangered many of the bird species and native trees in New Zealand. It is ironic that all the beautiful conifers and Autumn coloured trees that Queenstown is known for are introduced.

I also wanted to see a kiwi bird in real life.

The park is right beside the gondola and used to be an unofficial rubbish tip. Locals, Dick and Noelene Wilson, leased it in 1984 and planted native trees and shrubs and built aviaries and pathways.

After I started wandering aimlessly through the park, Wayne took the map and became our guide.

See! He was interested…in the map.
Karearea – NZ falcon
Weka – often confused with the Kiwi bird
Kea – very clever
Tuatara – part of the conservation show
Kereru – wood pigeon
Beautiful but introduced and an environmental threat.

To educate visitors to the park, they also showed some resident rats and a possum and talked about how they are such an environmental threat. The possum they showed was big, brown, and with no predators in New Zealand. A little different to the ones I see walking along our wires.

We did get to see a number of kiwi (once our eyes adjusted) but no photos were allowed. We decided not to wait for the kiwi bird show as Wayne was ‘birdied-out’.

Can’t go home without a book and kiwi bird.

The weather had begun to turn so where do you go when it is cold and rainy?

Patagonia Chocolates – Ice Creamery & Chocolaterie

Wayne had ice cream and I had a hot chocolate. We then caught a bus to Glenorchy. Even though the weather had turned, we still enjoyed the scenery and wandering (quickly) around Glenorchy.

Stop on the way at Bennetts Bluff – we didn’t let a little drizzle stop us making the 300m walk.
Bennetts Bluff
Smallest library in NZ.
Smallest train station in NZ.
Capturing the mood!

We finished our walk as the rain set in. So we settled in at the local pub. Got there at a quarter to 3, 15 minutes before the lunch menu finished.

Wayne went for fish and chips.
Helen, the green-lipped mussels are beautiful.

We took advantage of our big apartment, bought a few things to snack on, a bottle of Central Ontago Pinot noir and relaxed in front of our fire to watch a movie. Another great day!

Day 7 – Onsen Hot Pools and Jet Boat Ride

OMG – what a spectacular experience. A ten minute free shuttle ride to Onsen Hot Pools. Then an hour to soak and relax in a hot pool. A drink and treat part of the experience. We watched the Shotover jets go past several times and just savoured the amazing scenery. As you can see, the weather is incredible.

Initially, Wayne was a reluctant participant. He thought it was going to be shared pools. A pool can fit four so it would have been great for Mark, Donna and us. Totally recommend this experience to any Queenstown traveller.

Not so bad, after all!
This is life! By the way, a glass of Brut and packet of chips is probably not the most healthy breakfast lol!
You can just see the Shotover boat. We have elected not to do that one as we did it last time we were here.

After returning to Queenstown, we went via the street food markets on the wharf. Wayne grabbed his usual and I got some Japanese takoyaki. Yum!

Beside his favourite street stall
Loves his ham and cheese toastie
Takoyaki has octopus, Mark – I’m getting my seafood hit!

At 3pm we commenced our KJet ride across Lake Wakatipu and down the Kawarua and Shotover Rivers. We were positioned in the front.

The people before us got really wet so we sat at the front in the hope of staying mostly dry.

It was bone rattling and exhilarating as we hit every swell going across the lake. You either need a chiropractor after or the thumps put your back back in – I think the latter happened for us.

The 360 degree turns were amazing and our driver loved aiming towards something solid and veering at the last minute. It went for 60 fantastic minutes full of adrenaline, laughs and odd shower of water.

So much fun!
Cruising along up to 95km/hour
Crystal clear water with schist rock giving the green blue colouring
The calm after a 360 degree spin!

For the first time this week, we were out and about at happy hour so we went to the Rooftop bar that Wayne had been eyeing off all week. There wasn’t much of a view so we settled in on the bottom level. The bartender looked after us beautifully – we didn’t have to get up once as he came to us. We decided to have dinner there and I got my seafood fix again – the most delicious fish tacos.

Wayne went the rib-eye. He didn’t eat the salad!
I loved the side of vegetables as much as the tacos.

I think this has been my favourite day so far! Queenstown has so much a traveller can do. Just beautiful.

Day 6 – Hanging around Queenstown

We decided to explore Queenstown on foot. Began with a 10km walk beside the lake.

A few of the tracks – we didn’t run!
Wayne looking across at the golf course where he would have loved to play. Watch out boys – I think he is hatching a Queenstown/Arrowtown golf tour!
A perfect day!

We grabbed some lunch at the many hot food stalls set up along the shore front. I chose a Brazilian BBQ sandwich and as usual, Wayne went with his old classic. You guessed it – a ham and cheese toastie!

We then did the iconic gondola. I wasn’t really interested in the luge but Wayne would have done it if Mark was with us. Again, we did a lot of people watching. Kids on their BMXs going up the gondola and then riding down the peak to do it all again. Brave souls doing paragliding and landing on the football field in the middle of Queenstown. Bungy jumping wasn’t happening but as our gondola went past, it was easy to imagine how terrifying that would be. Certainly not for a scaredy-cat like me.

Gondola ride to the top of Bob’s Peak
The best view of Queenstown

Of course, my phone went dead as soon as we arrived at the top. Where are you, Donna? Luckily, Wayne took over photo duties.

As you can see, our weather is perfect!

We were both a little stiff from our walk so went back to the apartment for a rest.

Breaking Mark’s cardinal rule of never eating at the same place twice, we returned to Pub on Wharf. Wayne wanted the steak and ale pie I had the night before.

Donna chose such an accessible place to stay. Our walk to the wharf is flat and just under 500m on the right.

We had just settled in to ‘our’ pub – same seats beside the fire and TV, and first drinks when the fire alarm went off. They couldn’t find the source of the alarm so the entire pub and block were evacuated. We had ring-side seats for the fire engine arrival – which was quite prompt.

It was fascinating watching the event from the outdoor seats we had snavelled. Our entertainment was complete with the drinks we took with us during the evacuation and commentary from some fellow pub-goers, a couple from Idaho (Wayne managed to photo-bomb her shot of the fire engine).

Very close to the action

The firies couldn’t find the problem so we went back in and ordered dinner and another drink. Wayne went to ask for a channel change to the NRL. He disappeared for ages and I began to think he had somehow succumbed to the mysterious smoke or gas.

It turns out that the ice hockey had been on and when the channel changed, he saw our new friend from Idaho put her face in her hands. He went over to make sure she wasn’t upset about the channel change. Luckily, her reaction was just coincidence and he struck up a ten minute conversation about the ins and outs of rugby league. Weren’t they lucky to have such an aficionado of the sport?

Wayne enjoyed his pie, I had the steak, the fire was warm, and the Cowboys were playing the Titans. What more could two Queenslanders want? After that game, we headed back to the apartment and finished the day chatting with our three beautiful children.

Not our actual photo – I forgot again. Our one had chips and salad with it. NB: Wayne didn’t eat the salad.
Go the Cowboys!

Another beautiful day in Queenstown.

Days 4 and 5 – Milford Sound

Day 4 started early – still dark as we traipsed to the bus stop. Nearly a first hiccup when the second bus to Milford Sound was cancelled. Both drivers had rung in sick but luckily, they were able to find a driver for our bus. Out of the 52 people on the the bus, we were the only two not returning on the same day. It is a wonder we weren’t replaced with a couple from the second bus.

The bus took just over five hours but we had an informative driver and a couple of stops along the way.

Mirror Lakes
Would have been great as a reflection photo … except for the duck that swam across just as we got there.

An incredible reflection.

Monkey Creek (where you could drink the water)

Managed to snag a free lunch due to the second bus cancellation. Enjoyed that while we waited and people-watched. Who was going to be on our tour … and who snagged Donna and Mark’s cabin?

We worked out a few fellow passengers… never worked out the late-comers! We boarded the boat and the festivities began. Massive cheese board, drinks, and scenery that was beyond belief – so beautiful.

Only two minutes out and the first permanent waterfall, Lady Bowen Falls.

Our perfect weather meant we didn’t see the hundreds of temporary waterfalls that the rain brings and the ‘moodiness’ of Milford. Oh well, these photos will have to do!

Spectacular!
View from our cabin!

After a tour of the fiord, we anchored and went kayaking. The highlight was convincing a Taiwanese grandmother and her three granddaughters to give it a go. We saw seals basking in the sun.

The grandmother and one of her granddaughters.
A couple of seals basking in the sun.
Up close and personal.

I declared that I would go swimming to honour Donna and Mark but in the final minutes, and I’m sure no surprise to them, I pulled out. I HATE COLD WATER! The kayaking would have to do!

Photo from our window – our home for the night.

There was an on-board chef so the 3-course dinner was superb.

As usual, I forgot to take a photo but it was delicious.
Remembered half way through dessert.

We made friends with walkers who had traversed the Routeburn Track, the Taiwanese girls and a lovely couple from North Carolina.

You would be proud, Donna and Mark. We were last to bed …drinking with our North Carolina buddies. We even had to switch out the lights. It cost us enough. Our drinks bill ended being quite big lol!

We awoke to hear there were dolphins swimming on the bow.

No photo of the dolphins but view was magical.

We enjoyed another cruise around the fiord, coming close to Stirling Falls. So exhilarating to be on the front of the boat, under the spray. NB Wayne was in the warmth of the cabin.

Cold and invigorating

Probably my only feedback was the morning went too fast. There wasn’t really time to laze in bed and enjoy the scenery out the glass windows. We were basically given an individual hot cooked breakfast, had time for a quick shower and we were on our way back in to dock.

A panoramic view
Returning to the harbour past Lady Bowen Falls.

We caught our two shuttle buses back to Queenstown, where we were dropped at Peppers. Same room.

Ahead of time so a quick photo stop along the way.
Our beautiful view.

Wayne and I walked into Queenstown, missing Donna and Mark more than ever. Milford Sound was the experience we were going to do together.

We spent the afternoon trying to work out a bit of a plan for the next four days. Again, we needed Donna. Being our master planner, she would have worked out a number of things to do.

We decided our criteria for an experience included: a way of getting there as we are not hiring a car, only wanting to do things for half a day, and not having to pay the earth for the experience. After a couple of hours investigation, we decided on something for Sunday. You’ll have to read my next blog to find out what!

We ended the day at the pub watching the footy. Watched (and heard) the Warriors beat South Rabbitohs. We were all set to watch Manly and the channel was changed. Headed back to our apartment where Wayne enjoyed another victory from his Sea Eagles.

Day 3 – Arrowtown

Another slow morning before we caught the council bus to Arrowtown. $4 return for each of us. It makes a mockery of Brisbane’s public transport. This is so much more affordable and accessible.

Arrowtown is beautiful and worth a visit. We walked the streets before having lunch at The New Orleans Hotel.

A picturesque town
Judy F. – I haven’t had Yorkshire pudding since Julie used to make it for me.

We then went for a walk along the river.

A flat walk that followed the river with incredible Autumn colours.
We didn’t have time but I would have loved to have added the 4.2 km loop to our walk.

After catching the bus back to Queenstown, we shopped a little and came back to the apartment.

We headed back into town for a few drinks and some live music to close the day.

We had front row seats for the live music.

We’re off to Milford Sound for a couple of days so until we return to Queenstown….

Day 2 – TSS Earnslaw Steamship

Before you start reading: Where did Wayne take me for dinner?

An upmarket restaurant that captured his eye, requiring a closer inspection?
Or Erik’s Fish and Chips, a fish and chip van down a hidden alleyway?

Answer at end of post.

Day 2 – I have found the recipe for a good night’s sleep. No dog, no swim, no work, still dark! I slept in until 7:30. For those that know me, that is unheard of.

A beautiful sunrise

After our slow start, Wayne and I did a bit of reconnaissance – checking out Queenstown and bus stops.

At 11am, we boarded the TSS Earnslaw Steamship for a cruise across Lake Wakatipu to the Walter Peak High Country Farm. Wayne and I settled in at a booth with a glass of champagne and beer and were joined by a New Zealand couple from Timaru and her uncle. The two guys were quite big so the wife squeezed in beside Wayne and me. We were talking so much about local highlights, we missed much of the commentary.

When we got to the homestead, we were directed straight to the most sumptuous lunch of smoked BBQ meats, vegetables, salads and breads, followed by desserts.

Cheers
Trying to remember to take photos of the food.
Outside the homestead.

We then walked to the sheepdog show. I am ashamed to admit I thought this part of the tour would not interest me. We watched a girl, who had only been working there for four months, shear a sheep and then lead her sheepdog to bring back sheep that were out of eyesight and 400m up a hill.

The sheep was at her beck and call.

Part of the attraction for me is that the dog, Mist, was a doppelgänger for Mindy. What Mindy could have been if she had good trainers and lived on a sheep station lol!

Mist was just so beautiful.
Our dog, Mindy, on her walk with Emma yesterday.

On the way back, Wayne began complaining about feeling sick. As soon as we docked, he found a cure.

A chocolate ice cream cures all stomach ills – particularly after eating a huge BBQ buffet!

Because it doesn’t get dark until after 7:30pm, we went for a walk around the lake. The Queenstown Gardens are beautiful and a brilliant game of Frisbee Disc Golf has been set up amongst the pine trees.

Wayne – a reluctant subject!
Trying to get Wayne to take a ‘pondering’ photo – the look on my face is exasperation.
Here’s the sign we need in our back park, Jacqueline, Jo and Brenda!

At one stage, we were in a forest of trees that sounded like the eerie setting in Lord of the Rings.

The TSS Earnslaw heading in to pick up the 7pm passengers – our apartment is directly behind the ship.
Wayne content with life – red wine, chocolate and one of his favourite movies, Kelly’s Heroes.

Travelling without Donna and Mark meant:

We flooded both bathrooms because we had showers at the same time and couldn’t work the rectangular nozzle of the shower hose.

Me drinking my favourite wine, the one I have at home all the time, and wondering why it tasted so awful. Donna would have made me read the label properly.

I drank this for two nights wondering why it tasted so awful.

I have to remember to take photos. Donna always takes the best photos and gives me lots to choose from.

Mark always has breakfast so we would have eaten breakfast rather than having a glass of alcohol as our first meal of the day.

Answer: Erik’s Fish and Chips. I know it wasn’t hard! NB: the calamari and chips were fresh and delicious.

Here’s the seafood I promised you, Ann.’

Day 1: Travelling without our buddies

Although we are both excited to be travelling, our adventure is tinged with sadness. Our two main travelling buddies, Donna and Mark, are unable to join us.

My ponderings

What will we do without our holiday planner? Donna organised our whole trip, including flights and accommodation.

Who is going to lead us on all our highlights and go with me to a day spa? Donna finds the best things to do and we had a great day spa planned.

Who is going to entertain Wayne and enjoy his mischievous antics? Donna is Wayne’s partner-in-crime particularly when sweets and lolly shops are involved?

Who is going to be my muse? I rely on Mark for my humorous anecdotes.

Most importantly, who is going to keep Wayne calm and play golf with him? Mark always calms Wayne down when he starts to get stressed. There is no way I am playing golf.

Losing our travelling buddies did mean a few last minute scrambles. Thankfully, Wayne took over and began reorganising things.

Day 1 began early – walking Mindy, getting to the airport (thanks to neighbour, Jacqueline) and waiting for our flight.

Mountains had a dusting of snow the night before
A spectacular sight as we flew into Queenstown

Donna’s choice of accommodation was excellent. We are residing in a spectacular 2 bedroom apartment overlooking Lake Wakatipu.

Just kidding, Donna!
Peppers Beacon apartment overlooking the lake and a 5 minute walk into town
Walk along the lake to dinner.

Travelling without Donna and Mark meant:

I panicked and declared my smoothie powder at customs. The customs officer nearly rolled her eyes at me. D&M would have assured me it was all right and not a plant based product to be declared. As usual, I ignored Wayne who had the same advice.

Wayne’s watch is 3 hours behind and he doesn’t know how to reset it. Neither of us knew how to stop the International Roaming so kept our phones on aeroplane mode for the first few hours in NZ.

Choosing a place to eat took us an hour of walking and we ended up back at the first place we considered. No way would Mark have let that happen.

View at dinner
That red is a blanket – one of the reasons it took us so long to find a place to eat is that Wayne didn’t want to be cold.

The sun was still up when we returned home. Donna and Mark will be pleased to hear that Wayne purchased a bottle of red for his nightcap.

Not a New Zealand wine but also not ouzo!

Without our normal game of cards with D&M, we settled for a quiet drink and a ridiculous action movie. I gave up after an hour and went to bed – 9:30 NZ time…6:30 Qld time.